Canary History From Africa

Canary. Congratulations! Whether this is your first bird or your latest addition, there are a few things you should know to help your canary live a long and healthy life. Canaries, prized for their beautiful song and lovely colors, are a type of finch, and are soft billed. Although males are most often the singers, occasionally a hen will do a little singing. Except under rare circumstances, plumage is not an indication of gender; generally, if the bird sings it is considered a male, or singer; if it merely “tweets” and “peeps” it’s considered a female, or hen.

HISTORY
Canaries originally came from a group of islands west of Africa known as the Canary Islands. The islands were inhabited by fierce wild dogs (Canis) for which the Romans named them. The wild canary first captured the attention of the Spaniards during their invasion of the islands in 1473. The little green/brown birds soon became popular with the soldiers and sailors because they were quickly tamed, they became well adjusted to their cages and the males sang irresistible, cheerful songs. The Spanish soldiers and sailors often took these birds back to Spain as souvenirs for their own enjoyment and as gifts for their lady friends. This practice became so popular that the birds were nicknamed “little sugar birds.” As the Spaniards recognized demand for these little sugar birds, they began exporting them. Over the past 500 years, careful selective breeding has provided the world with many beautiful colors and types of canaries.

CHOOSE YOUR FANCY
Canaries are grouped into three basic categories:
1. Type (body size and shape, and stance: Border, Fife, Gloster, Norwich, Frill, and Yorkshire)
2. Color (green, blue [white/black], yellow, orange, red, brown, gray, and various combinations)
3. Song (Roller, Waterslager, American Singer, Timbrado, and Chopper)

A Fourth type should probably be recognized: the “mixed breed” or “Kitchen Canary”. Although they won’t win any prizes at canary shows, these colorful little gems make wonderful pets and often have a hearty and varied song.

THIS MAN IS AN ISLAND
Male canaries are very territorial, and two males should never be kept in a cage together. Two males in a cage is a recipe for disaster! Surprising as it may seem, your little songster will not be lonely without feathered friends, so long as you remember that you are his flock. He wants to be your friend, so talk to him, play music for him, let him watch TV with you, and treat him to the canary’s all-time favorite sound: your vacuum cleaner. If you must leave him alone for long stretches of time, be kind enough to leave him with a radio or some other audible entertainment. Remember that his ancestors lived in the wild, where a quiet jungle or forest means only one thing: danger. He will feel more secure if his daytime environment has a little bit of “noise”.

If you have your heart set on a pretty flock of canaries, consider a few hens, or perhaps one singer and some hens. Although three or more males may be housed together, they probably won’t sing, or only the “top bird” will sing. The male sings for two basic purposes—to flirt with lady birds and to claim his territory. Usually, he must feel like his space is his own for his song to be in top form. Also, if he is surrounded by ladies, well, he’s already won, hasn’t he? If you must have the pretty flock and the song, and he simply won’t oblige, consider putting him in a separate cage. But please don’t make him share it with a parakeet—he’s liable to get his toes bit off.

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Lovebird Diet and Grooming

Lovebirds are some of the best birds to have as pets. One of the smallest in the parrot family but do not let the size fool you. Lovebirds have big bird attitudes and playfulness. Many times when we visit our local pet shop we leave with bird, cage and a bag of seeds. General lovebird care is much more in depth than most usually realize. With a bit of time and an open heart we will explore things today with some ideas as well that might help keep you and your bird healthy, happy and forever friends.

DIET 

The first thing to consider in taking care of your lovebird is diet. In the wild, lovebirds eat a large variety of foods including vegetables, fruits, grains, nuts, seeds, and sometimes even worms and carrion. So in keeping with their preferred natural diet you would try and mimic those things at home. Now we all realize that in the wild birds normally get tons more exercises than they do in the cage so the amount of high-fat foods we feed need to be limited. An all anything diet needs to be avoided at all costs. In the past everyone pretty much thought that a bag of seed was needed to keep birds happy.
 
This is a dangerous way of thinking. All seed diets can lead to obesity, high cholesterol, and multiple nutritional deficits and can cause your bird to be less resistant to disease and even cancer! A well rounded diet is needed for to keep your lovebird healthy and happy. Feed a diet of fresh vegetables, pellets, nuts, and grains, proteins, such as eggs or cooked meat and pastas, cooked, everyday. Fruits should be reserved for treats once or twice a week. Seeds are necessary for nutrients in their diets so you should feed seeds daily but in small amounts.

Your lovebird can eat pretty much everything you do with the exception of avocado, rhubarb, chocolate, caffeine or raw milk products. There are some lively debates about what not to feed your birds. A standard rule would be if it's bad for you, it's bad for them. Many lovebird owners cook for their birds and I cook for mine. Birdie bread is a great way to hide vegetables that some of the more stubborn birds will not touch. There are plenty of birdie bread recipes out there, check them out! 

CAGE 

Cage size is very important. Your lovebird needs to be able to stretch and flap his wings without hitting the sides of the cage or any toys. There are many cages out there and it's always best to get the largest cage you can afford for your bird. There are things to consider as well such as bar spacing. Bar spacing is very important because bar spacing to wide may cause injury to your bird as their heads can get stuck in between the bars. Birds love to climb so it makes sense that horizontal cage bars are the most desirable for the cage. Preferable at least two walls should be horizontal to allow play, climbing and hanging time for your bird. Perches are the next thing in line with the cage designs. Many cages come with wooden dowels as perches. Natural wood perches are great and it's important to remember that your bird will need different size perches to provide foot exercise and prevent foot sores or arthritis in your pet bird.
 

LIGHTS 

A full-spectrum light above the cage will provide Vitamin D which is filtered out by window glass. Make sure the bird can’t reach electrical cords. Birds enjoy a window view but make sure the area doesn’t overheat and that there's no draft. Check by holding a candle steady to see if the flame flickers. Birds must be able to self-regulate temperatures by moving away from heat and the sun. Birds need 10 -12 hours of rest daily. Consider a cage cover.
 

GROOMING LoveBird

Grooming is essential to your bird’s health. Birds have dander, it looks like little white dust specs on your clothes and this dander/dust isn't removed when your lovebird preens his feathers. That why providing a bathing dish or misting your bird is necessary. Your lovebird should everyday have a water source other than their drinking water to bath in. Many birds adore their bath times and will have so much fun splashing around and making a big ole wet mess for you to clean up. Misting is another option for bathing your bird. Spritz them with water in a fine mist and watch the fun begin. Those birds that like to mist might also enjoy showering with you.

There are company's that make shower perches; they are affordable and easy to use. We have birds that just love to shower with us. They perch and when we are done with our showers I change the shower head setting to fine mist. It's a great fun time after that and it's a wonderful excuse to spend more time with your birds. Nails, wings and sometimes beaks all need to be trimmed from time to time. This is best accomplished by taking your bird to your avian vet or your local pet shop. Birds have blood supplies in their toe nails and wings and can bleed to death fairly quickly if one of them is nicked and not taking care of immediately. Do not attempt to cut your birds nails, wings or beaks unless you have been taught by a professional.
 
ILLNESS 
Keep wings and nails clipped to avoid accidents. Flour can stop bleeding. Don’t take birds outside unless caged and supervised. Lovebirds are hardy but all birds hide signs of illness. Learn what normal droppings look like so you can spot abnormalities. A sick bird doesn’t eat well, may not drink, may appear fluffed or show respiratory symptoms, or will sit on two feet or on the cage floor. Prompt vet care is essential. Provide warmth for ailing birds and during vet trips. Bring a recent dropping for the vet. During molts, provide stress food and extra protein. Offer favorite foods, Ike spray millet, when a bird is under the weather. Avoid spray products near birds, like hair spray, perfume, cleaning products, air fresheners or anything with fumes: nail polish, potpourri, scented candles. If in doubt, ventilate and move the bird temporarily. Be vigilant during holidays about non-stick bakeware, aerosol products and supervision around visitors. Make sure the bird gets its rest. Invest in a recent book about lovebirds or smaller parrots In general which has a good section on first aid.

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Tundra Swan Monster For Fish

Unlike mute swans, tundra swans have a straight neck when swimming. Tundra swans are migrant visitors in Pennsylvania, breeding throughout arctic Canada, Alaska, and northeastern Siberia. These swans begin breeding between ages three and five, and they mate for life. Both adults care for, and aggressively defend, their young. Hunting, Tundra Swan where safe and legal, is the preferred method of reducing nonmigratory waterfowl populations, and over time may serve to decrease damage. Hunting also makes harassment techniques more effective. In some cases, municipal ordinances would need to be changed to permit hunting in nontraditional hunting areas such as parks, estates, golf courses, and corporate facilities, with perhaps special restrictions on hours and dates open to hunting. The Pennsylvania Game Commission can provide information on current waterfowl hunting regulations and seasons.

There are a number of nonlethal techniques that are effective in discouraging waterfowl. The key to their success is promptness and persistence. It is important to initiate control measures as soon as you notice these unwanted guests don’t wait until a large flock builds up. Once waterfowl become established, they are reluctant to leave and are more tolerant of control methods. A combination of methods works best since waterfowl quickly become accustomed to any single technique. The following control techniques have been proven successful, but they will work only if they are applied with diligence and persistence.

Well-fed domestic “tundra swan park ducks” and geese serve as decoys, encouraging wild birds to congregate in unnaturally high concentrations. Wild waterfowl are capable of finding their own food and will survive without handouts from people. Therefore, eliminating artificial feeding of waterfowl on public and private property should be the first control measure undertaken. Ordinances against feeding can be enacted and enforced by county or local authorities. It is important that a public education campaign accompany any anti-feeding ordinances to stimulate public interest, participation, and support.

Waterfowl can be repelled by almost any large foreign object or mechanical noise-making device. Frightening devices should be in place before the start of the damage season to prevent waterfowl from establishing a use pattern. To improve their effectiveness and prevent tundra swan from becoming accustomed to them, these devices should be moved every two to three days and used in varying combinations. All applicable laws must be observed when using these devices, particularly those governing the making of loud noises, discharging of firearms, use of pyrotechnics, and use of free-running dogs. Also, consider the possible reaction of neighbors. Nesting waterfowl cannot be harassed without a federal permit. In addition, Tundra Swan molt their flight feathers from June through August and should not be harassed during this time.

Visual repellents such as flags, balloons, and scarecrows can be used at a density of one per 3 to 5 acres before waterfowl settle in the area. If birds have already become accustomed to using an area, an additional one or more per acre may be necessary. Because geese can quickly become acclimated to visual repellents, reinforcement with audio repellents such as automatic exploders, pyrotechnics, or distress calls will be necessary.

Because adult mute tundra swans aggressively protect their young from Canada geese, swan decoys arranged in “family groups” have been somewhat effective in discouraging geese from settling in an area. Each swan “family” should include two large, 35-inch styrofoam or woodenc“adult” tundracswans surrounding two or three smaller “young” tundra swans. Tundra Swan decoys should be anchored on a tether withcenough slack in the rope to allow for changes in water levelcand to allow decoys to move with the wind. To make thiscapproach effective, use frightening devices to remove allcwaterfowl currently using the lake or pond, install enough swan groups to be visible from all parts of the pond, diminish other attractions in the area, and frighten away any small flocks of geese that land.

Tundra Swans

 Where feasible, limit lawn size and increase grass height to 10-14 inches, especially along shorelines. Consider replacing large lawn areas with shrubs, ground covers such as pachysandra and myrtle, or grass species that are not palatable to waterfowl. Tundra swans prefer to feed in bluegrass (Poa spp.), so planting tall fescue (Festuca arundinaceae) will reduce grazing. Planting trees will interfere with birds’ flight paths, and shrubs will reduce birds’ ability to see from the ground. Groups of shrubs and trees should be planted to break up the open landscape and reduce visibility. Landscaping techniques that reduce birds’ view to less than 25 to 30 feet discourages grazing, especially if harassment programs also are used.


Tundra Swans Habitat
There are several ways to make a pond and its surrounding area unattractive to waterfowl. Tundra Swans generally will not establish nesting territories in areas where they cannot easily walk in and out of the water. Therefore, constructing a pond so that there is an abrupt 18- to 24-inch vertical bank at the water’s edge will deter geese. In locations such as levees or banks around airport runways, use large boulder rip-rap, which geese cannot easily climb over. Large boulder rip-rap, however, may provide nesting or loafing habitat for gulls.

Waterfowl also can be deterred by eliminating emergent aquatic vegetation with herbicides or an aquatic weed harvester, or by temporarily draining the pond. Contact the Pennsylvania Fish and Boat Commission at (814) 359- 5147 for specific recommendations and permits for vegetation management in ponds. Unfortunately, removing vegetation also will reduce habitat quality for other wildlife and fish species, so use it with caution. If possible, discourage removal of woody brush from shorelines. In winter, shut off aerators to allow water to freeze. Reduce or eliminate fertilizer applications to areas surrounding ponds so that grass is less nutritious for grazing waterfowl. Prohibit feeding of waterfowl and construction of nesting structures around ponds, and plant shrubs on bare shorelines and on islands to reduce attractiveness for feeding, loafing, and nesting.

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Mallards Conservations and Habitat

The number of mallards in Pennsylvania exceeds 160,000 birds. Most mallards in the state begin breeding as one-year-olds. They seek a new mate each year, and the female raises the young alone. Some nuisance mallards are wild birds, but many were raised in captivity and released by private individuals or clubs. Many of these birds concentrate in urban and suburban ponds, along with large flocks of domestic ducks. Mallards born in Pennsylvania typically remain in the area until their water source freezes for the winter. They then migrate to southern parts of the state and to Maryland or the Chesapeake Bay.

Although not as effective as exclusion in the long term, repellents can be useful for short-term control. Methyl anthranilate, a chemical that has taste and olfactory repellent properties, is currently registered with the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) for controlling waterfowl. This product is currently marketed under the trade name ReJeX-iT. It was developed using food-grade ingredients that have the unique ability to repel birds while remaining safe for Mallards and birds, humans, and other mammals. There are three different ReJeX-iT products available one for use on turf and lawns and two for use on nonfishbearing bodies of water.

Agricultural damage can be reduced by timing planting or harvesting periods so they do not coincide with waterfowl migration. Many grains planted in spring are vulnerable to waterfowl damage during fall migration because they are swathed at harvest time, allowed to dry in the field, and then combined. Where conditions permit, production of winter grains instead of spring grains may limit waterfowl damage because winter grains usually can be straight combined in July and August, long before migrating waterfowl arrive in the area. A winter grain’s rosette of leaves is vulnerable to grazing damage by waterfowl in fall and spring, however, research has shown that light grazing of the winter rosette actually can increase grain yield.

Normally, Mallards and tundra swans are wary and prefer to feed in open lands where they can see the surrounding countryside. They also require open areas in which to land and are very reluctant to land in standing corn. Cornfields opened up by silage cutting, or by cutting the outer rows prior to picking, provide a landing space for waterfowl. If possible, do not open fields prior to the main harvest period. Once a field is open, harvest corn as soon as it is ripe and in as short a time as possible, and protect the field with one or more scare devices.

Waterfowl damage to unharvested fields can be limited by encouraging Mallards to feed in the stubble of harvested crops, in baited fields, or in lure crops that are planted to attract and hold waterfowl. Lure crops can be established in areas known to have high waterfowl damage and should be planted with grains that are particularly attractive for waterfowl. When using good-quality seed, plant at the normal rate. When using commodity grain or out-of-date seed, increase the planting rate by a factor of 1.5 to 2. Do not allow any hunting or harassment of waterfowl in the lure crop area until all surrounding crops are harvested and the threat of crop damage is over.

Mallards

Field-baiting involves scattering grain in previously harvested fields or at natural waterfowl feeding areas to attract and hold waterfowl and keep them away from unharvested fields. Field baiting is most effective when done within two to three days of the birds’ arrival. There are no set rules about the amount or type of bait to use, but provide enough to ensure that no birds will go elsewhere to feed, and use a grain that birds prefer. Often this can be the same seed that is grown in surrounding fields. Do not allow any harassment of waterfowl in the area of the baited field until all crops are harvested.

Regardless of the method used, it may be necessary to initially scare or herd the waterfowl away from surrounding fields until they have settled in the lure crop or in the baited field and have stopped visiting the other crops. State law requires that all artificial feeding be stopped and all grain removed at least 30 days before hunting waterfowl within the zone of influence of the baited area.

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Mute Swans Habitat In Waterfowl

Mute swans are not native to North America but were first introduced from Europe in the late 1800s. Consequently, they are an unprotected species in Pennsylvania. They begin breeding at two or three years of
age, and their population has grown to more than 9,500 swans in the Northeast. They mate for life, and both adults care for the young. The adults can be extremely aggressive when protecting their young. Mute swans consume large amounts of aquatic vegetation that other fish and wildlife species depend on for food and shelter. Mute swans usually have an arching neck as they swim.

Waterfowl have two primary habitat requirements. First, they need a permanent body of water on which to land, escape, rest, and roost. Second, they must have a suitable open feeding area that provides a place to land, has good visibility of the surrounding territory, and has abundant tender young grass and other vegetation for feeding. Mallards are primarily filter feeders and will consume almost anything edible. Swans eat aquatic plants, and geese eat a variety of terrestrial grasses.

Mute Swans

All species will come on land to feed, typically twice a day, in the morning and late afternoon. However, they may feed at night if their normal daytime habits are disturbed. Normally waterfowl roost on open water at night.

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